The Train to Nowhere

We were very sad to leave Eugene and Martha yesterday morning - it had become a place of relaxation and rest after a hectic couple of weeks, and they were very accommodating. Bought a plant (don't ask what it was - it was red and pretty) for Martha to say thankyou for the pancakes and laundry, she was ecstatic, saying 'multamesc, multamesc' and kissing us on our cheeks. When we paid, we realised we'd been given a discount on the original price as we were 'angels'.

Eugene insisted on driving us to the train station and carrying our tent. As he locked up the car, he switched a video camera on inside the car - he informed us that his car had been vandalised on numerous occasions by the 'competition' - other hostels in the area (one in particular) would employ someone to key his car/dent the wing to warn him away from advertising his guesthouse in the train station. His place is so small, with very little revenue, that we couldn't understand why larger institutions would do that to him.

After a sad goodbye, we made our way to the platform at which time the announcer (after the obligatory 'ding-dong' of the xylophone) told us that our train was 80 minutes late. Cue panic (our connecting train was the only one that day, and we would miss it). Relief followed as our train pulled up on time (think the other one was a different train - we shall never know).

It was lovely, a truly luxurious train, compared to the ones we had experienced so far in Romania - air-conditioned, spacious, clean... The scenery was amazing - passing through the Carpathians, steep mountainous rock surrounded the train as we passed through a valley covered in thick, green forest.

There were two English girls sitting near us, who unfortunately attracted the attention of a young Romanian lothario. Phrases floated through the air towards us.. 'You both so smart - English girls so smart', 'That's a beautiful name - my name is Valentine.. I am your Valentine...'. Even the Romanian couple next to us began to cringe in embarassment. The romance was over when he serenaded them, at top volume, with the recent Romanian top hit 'Dragostea Din Tei'.

Our next train, from Bucharest to Russe in Bulgaria, was less comfortable. Another turn-of-the-century vehicle, with grimy windows and cramped cabins. We were seated in a compartment with three Americans - two 18 year old girls and a Californian school teacher. Let's just say, it was quite difficult to read our books due to volume!

The train was running late when it stopped at the Romanian/Bulgarian border, so there was little chance that we would catch our connecting train. We arrived at Russe, prepared to get off to catch the train and were told we would have to wait onboard until the Border Police had checked our passports. So we waited. And waited. And watched the officials having cigarettes and cups of tea. While we waited. Shouts came from men on the platform - 'Where you going? I can take you there, taxi, 6 Euro each, only 6 Euro. No? Why? Why?' - they were very persistant, buzzing around like flies - swatting one only made their mates swarm over.

Eventually got off the train, and befriended a Dutch couple (Sebastian & Sabina - hi if you're reading this!!) who were also going to Veliko Tarnovo, along with the Californian teacher (Kevin). We made our way down to the ticket office and, through a bit of German communication, Sebastian managed to get us some tickets for the next train (thought it didn't exist!) to Gorna Oriahovitsa. The train station in Veliko is closed (no-one seems to know why), so we would have to get a taxi from Gorna to Veliko (about 10km).

Made our way onto the train, unsure of its destination. Passed through many small villages and small country train stations with officials wearing comical red hats, it seemed we were once again going to the back of beyond. Saw some more amazing scenery, although Bulgaria was considerably flatter than Romania - as soon as we crossed the Danube (not particularly pretty, very industrial part of the river and very wide), the landscape seemed to change instantly.

Due to the heat (which we hear you guys are also getting back home?!), there were numerous forest fires, flames taller than a man coming from fields of corn with smoke billowing across the countryside (and in one case, a man sauntering along between two rows of flames, seeming not to have a care in the world). The sunset was pretty spectacular, giving the blue sky a beautiful orangey-red hue, with black silhouettes of distant hills and trees standing out. We all leaned out of the windows in silence, with the wind in our hair, watching horses and carts in the fields and waving to children next to the track - felt like explorers, entering a relatively uninhabited country, surrounded by beauty and tranquility.

As the stations got smaller and smaller, the train became emptier still, until, at a seemingly 'final' stop, the only other passenger in our carriage (a small elderly woman with a head scarf) disembarked, leaving us 5 foreigners on board. The train turned its engines off and the ticket inspectors and driver all got off for a beer and a cigarette as the sun went down. So we waited. And waited. And got a little nervous. Finally, they all got back on board and the train began to move.

The sun had just set as we pulled into Gorna, and, with luck on our side, and the help of a friendly Bulgarian student, caught a minibus on its way to Veliko Tarnovo. Cost 1 Lev each (about 30/40p). We were dropped off in the middle of town and all looked at our maps to get our bearings. We said goodbye to Sebastian & Sabina as they went in search of a guesthouse, and made our way to the hostel with Kevin, who had decided to stay in 'Hotel Comfort' (a very attractive sounding abode at 10.30pm), about 30m from our Hikers Hostel.

Realised our hostel was VERY much off the beaten track, and up a VERY steep hill - Kevin decided to make sure we were safe by attempting to find our hostel before going to his - he shot off down a street, telling us to 'wait there, girls', in search of the place. Very sweet guy, wandered off chatting away to himself, we could hear his chattering even when he disappeared from view. He came back, saying the road he'd walked down was 'very creepy' and that he'd ask where the hostel was in his hotel. They informed us it was up another side street, 'number 19 or something...'

So we thanked Kevin, and began our laden trek up the steep side-street. Found number 19, looked at Lydia's text (Thanks, Lydia!) and realised it was 91. Much, much further up. Oh joy! Finally stumbled into the hostel, dropped our bags and went out for dinner at 11pm. Ate at 11.30pm (gorgeous pasta dishes), and zonked out at about 12.30am. Found a VERY strange creature in our room, on someone else's bunk (thank god) - a type of centipede, but the length and width of an index finger, with long feelers and spider-like legs, and it was stripy. And it moved with inhuman speed when we prodded the teeshirt it was residing on. So now, it is somewhere in our room, and it may eat us in our sleep. We will let you know.

Haven't really explored Veliko yet, going to the resident castle this afternoon - it's still very hot so going to try and take it easy before getting the 4-hour bus to Plovdiv tomorrow morning.

Just so you all know, if you don't already - very strange custom in Bulgaria to shake the head for 'yes' and nod for 'no'. The head shake is more of a 'wobble', and rather off-putting at first. But we've now experienced the wobble a few times, and are getting used to it.

Will try and post tomorrow from Plovdiv. Hope you're all ok, missing you all lots.

Lots of love from..

Us xxx