Krakow/Birkenau
Had another busy couple of days - spent yesterday exploring the South of Krakow, walking through the old streets of Kazimierz (the Jewish quarter). The buildings are beautiful, with old antique shops and tiny bistros tucked away.
At the moment, the Jewish Culture Festival is in progress, which is based in Kazimierz but has events taking place all over the city. There are heavy metal bands (!) playing in the Old Town Square, men on stilts blowing bubbles and hundreds of accordion/violin/trumpet players serenading the tourists on the streets. It's a great atmosphere to be around.
We were determined to find Oskar Schindler's factory yesterday, so wandered over the Wisla river which separates the main city from the outskirts, as we had read 'somewhere' that it was in that direction. All we had was a road name. So after making our way through a strange Polish industrial estate, we spotted a bistro which had nice food, so decided on lunch. Before going in, glanced next door and there was the factory gate! The buildings are currently being restored to become a museum next year, but we were lucky enough to come across a lovely gentleman who gave us a brief history and showed us Schindler's office.
We spent the afternoon sitting, reading, in the tree-lined park which surrounds the Old Town (which has been planted on the remains of the Old Town fortifications) and is amusingly called 'Planty'. Everything here ends in a 'y'. Komputery, laptopy, notebooky, monety, telephony.. It keeps us amused.
Watched a very awful DVD last night at the hostel - a guy staying here wanted to watch Hannibal, so the lights were turned off and the projector screen set up - but it was subtitled in both Japanese and another unknown language (looked like Urdu) and every few minutes the screen froze. All the way through a 2 hour film. Eventually, the original watchee wandered off in frustration, and we were left watching a film we didn't really want to watch. But then it froze one too many times and stopped itself. So we were saved. And on a plus side (Marli's plus side, not Helen's), Italy won the match.
Today, we made the 72km trip back to Auschwitz, to visit Birkenau. The original Auschwitz site is called Auschwitz I, Birkenau is Auschwitz II and Monowitz is Auschwitz III. Birkenau is the 'extermination camp', and the end of the line for Jews and Nazi prisoners. The famous 'death gate' is the first thing you see, with the train tracks leading right up to it. Inside, it is far larger than Auschwitz one, maybe 5 times bigger. There are many blocks, which housed prisoners, with bare wooden bunks made of rough slats of wood. The buildings have been generally untouched since the liberation of the camp, and the living conditions are a stark reminder of the pain these people went through. There were 4 gas chambers on site, all of which were destroyed with dynamite by the SS to remove evidence when the war was coming to an end. All that remains is a pile of rubble and twisted metal. The Birkenau site is less a museum and more an indication as to the scale of the genocide. The place was just as moving as Auschwitz I, and such an important place to visit. It really puts life into perspective.
One positive thing about our first visit which we forgot - in the gas chamber, there was a nest of swallows just above the entrance, which flew in and out over our heads. An indication to new life and new beginnings, I guess..
However, the myth that birds don't fly over Auschwitz, and that birdsong is never heard, is true of Birkenau. There are no birds. There is no sound, the place is silent.
We are going to Prague tomorrow, getting the train at 8.30am and arriving in Czech Republic at 4.45pm, so a long day travelling. We're hoping it's not going to be as hot as today, 29 degrees, with no wind! It felt a lot hotter than that, and the bus we travelled back to Krakow in was a typical town bus with few windows and no air conditioning.
Oh and we splashed out and had a lovely evening meal in a restaurant on the square, felt very posh, with all the rich people! And it cost a total of.. 3 pounds each. We love this country!!!
Anyway, ta ra for now, will post when we get to Prague! And keep the comments coming, it's so nice to hear from all of you.
Lots of love H&M xxx
At the moment, the Jewish Culture Festival is in progress, which is based in Kazimierz but has events taking place all over the city. There are heavy metal bands (!) playing in the Old Town Square, men on stilts blowing bubbles and hundreds of accordion/violin/trumpet players serenading the tourists on the streets. It's a great atmosphere to be around.
We were determined to find Oskar Schindler's factory yesterday, so wandered over the Wisla river which separates the main city from the outskirts, as we had read 'somewhere' that it was in that direction. All we had was a road name. So after making our way through a strange Polish industrial estate, we spotted a bistro which had nice food, so decided on lunch. Before going in, glanced next door and there was the factory gate! The buildings are currently being restored to become a museum next year, but we were lucky enough to come across a lovely gentleman who gave us a brief history and showed us Schindler's office.
We spent the afternoon sitting, reading, in the tree-lined park which surrounds the Old Town (which has been planted on the remains of the Old Town fortifications) and is amusingly called 'Planty'. Everything here ends in a 'y'. Komputery, laptopy, notebooky, monety, telephony.. It keeps us amused.
Watched a very awful DVD last night at the hostel - a guy staying here wanted to watch Hannibal, so the lights were turned off and the projector screen set up - but it was subtitled in both Japanese and another unknown language (looked like Urdu) and every few minutes the screen froze. All the way through a 2 hour film. Eventually, the original watchee wandered off in frustration, and we were left watching a film we didn't really want to watch. But then it froze one too many times and stopped itself. So we were saved. And on a plus side (Marli's plus side, not Helen's), Italy won the match.
Today, we made the 72km trip back to Auschwitz, to visit Birkenau. The original Auschwitz site is called Auschwitz I, Birkenau is Auschwitz II and Monowitz is Auschwitz III. Birkenau is the 'extermination camp', and the end of the line for Jews and Nazi prisoners. The famous 'death gate' is the first thing you see, with the train tracks leading right up to it. Inside, it is far larger than Auschwitz one, maybe 5 times bigger. There are many blocks, which housed prisoners, with bare wooden bunks made of rough slats of wood. The buildings have been generally untouched since the liberation of the camp, and the living conditions are a stark reminder of the pain these people went through. There were 4 gas chambers on site, all of which were destroyed with dynamite by the SS to remove evidence when the war was coming to an end. All that remains is a pile of rubble and twisted metal. The Birkenau site is less a museum and more an indication as to the scale of the genocide. The place was just as moving as Auschwitz I, and such an important place to visit. It really puts life into perspective.
One positive thing about our first visit which we forgot - in the gas chamber, there was a nest of swallows just above the entrance, which flew in and out over our heads. An indication to new life and new beginnings, I guess..
However, the myth that birds don't fly over Auschwitz, and that birdsong is never heard, is true of Birkenau. There are no birds. There is no sound, the place is silent.
We are going to Prague tomorrow, getting the train at 8.30am and arriving in Czech Republic at 4.45pm, so a long day travelling. We're hoping it's not going to be as hot as today, 29 degrees, with no wind! It felt a lot hotter than that, and the bus we travelled back to Krakow in was a typical town bus with few windows and no air conditioning.
Oh and we splashed out and had a lovely evening meal in a restaurant on the square, felt very posh, with all the rich people! And it cost a total of.. 3 pounds each. We love this country!!!
Anyway, ta ra for now, will post when we get to Prague! And keep the comments coming, it's so nice to hear from all of you.
Lots of love H&M xxx
posted by the travellers at 8:57 pm
4 Comments:
What a great idea this blog is!
It's so exciting to read your commentary as you go. So well written and informative too. Justine Shapiro, eat your heart out!
Have a good trip tomorrow. Cant wait to hear about your exploits on the next leg of the journey.
Take good care of each other. Miss you lots and send you both a big hug.
Mxxxy
Well done girls on another cracking entry.
I feel no need to visit auswitz(?) now, not that it was even on my list of places to see, as i have been through the experience with you both.
I look forward to the next entry.
All is good in the Big Smoke.
I seem to have finally found myself a nice man, so i am full of glee.
Of course, it could all go disasterously wrong by the time you have reached Prague, but at the moment its in full swing!
Love Lydia xxxxxx
Golly this is nifty! I agree with your Mum, Helen... I am so excited to read of your experiences. Many thanks to your Grandpa for sharing the site address! We are very interested in your reaction to Prague ~ I have friends who say it's the most wonderful place they have ever been and they plan to retire there! Sending our very best wishes for a safe and amazing trip... Sallie & Dad
Hi girls,
Mina gave me your blog, great to keep up with your travels.Sounds as if you are having a great time.Keep safe. God bless, love Diane & Alice X
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